Oris ProPilot Calibre 111

Oris has redone the ProPilot Calibre 111, and the new one costs $7,150 on strap or $7,400 on bracelet. The case drops from 44mm to 43mm and from 13.85mm to 13.2mm, which matters more than it sounds on a watch built around a barrel large enough to hold ten days of power.

That barrel is the reason the watch exists. The Calibre 111 is hand-wound, runs at 21,600 bph with 40 jewels, and stores 240 hours, which is ten days, of running time. A display caseback shows the mechanism responsible for it, with angled fluting that repeats on the bezel.

The date window has moved to 6 o'clock for better balance, and the dial, in black or pine green, now mixes a vertically brushed main surface with pebbled graining on the subdials and minute track. Nothing about the architecture has changed, but several details have been sharpened at once, which is why the update reads as more than cosmetic.

Water resistance stays at 100m, which is plenty for a watch built around a power reserve indicator rather than a dive bezel. The strap options are a stainless steel bracelet with a folding LIFT clasp or a dark brown Cordovan leather strap with an adjustable fit system, also fastened by the LIFT clasp. A ten-day manual-wind movement with this level of finishing, at this price, sits above Oris's own Aquis and Pointer Date lines, which is the case the watch is making for itself.